Once the basic measurements have been established, I can position the eyes on the inside of the top. I have left it between roughly 3 and 4 mm thick. Note there is a scribe line on the underside of the top with a tracing of the rib structure which I will use for the marking out.

I start by making an awl marking for A on the lowest point of the C-bout curve. From there, with dividers, I get my 7mm for B. Then, using a line with a metal ruler and scribe through the Bs, the centre of the lower eye is 29.5mm from C to D. DF is 63mm, and here again, because it has worked before, we mark the same distance on the middle of the C-bout at C to get E. And finally we arrive at EF for the top eyes at the centre.

These are all the markings on the inside (except for the nicks in the end). From now on everything else will be marked on the outside. By poking through the fine awl, I only need to transfer the centres to the outside. It is important you remember at which angle you poke the awl through as you will get quite different results (Figs. 2 and 3). I don´t think it matters so much how you do it, but more importantly that it is consistent and works together with your measurement. The sum of all the little details and how you use your tools in your own way will influence and establish your style, as long as you are consistent.

I use f-hole cutters for the eyes, although I'm not so sure they were commonly used by all the Cremonese as their lobes are often not perfectly round, but of course they could have been slightly readjusted as well. For the cutters I need to drill a 2.5mm pilot hole. Here, too, the angle of drilling should be taken into consideration. Do you want your holes to be parallel to the arch, parallel to the ribs, or something in between such as not quite parallel to the ribs.